Yalumba, based in Eden Valley is one of Australia’s First families of wine dating back to 1849. Still family owned, this winery is the pioneer of Viognier in Australia and we owe all this to their chief winemaker Louisa Rose, the “Queen of Viognier” who has been with them since 1992. The first commercial vineyards date back to 1980 but it was Louisa who took on this grape, dedicated time to understand it and let the grape variety flourish. I was lucky to have Louisa herself as my host, taking me around their onsite cooperage, their underground vats that have been transformed into function room, and tasting through the wines. So approachable and knowledgeable, she was so giving of her time and information. It is no wonder she is known as one of Australia’s best winemakers.
When asked about the biggest challenges as she began working with Viognier back in 1992 Louisa says: “Viognier doesn’t behave in the vineyard like other white varieties, in fact it is more like a red variety in some ways. This took us a while to understand.” And for that reason, they began picking the grapes at the same time as the Shiraz, rather than the Riesling which it at least a 2-week difference.
But through all the challenges, Louisa really loves this variety: “Viognier is such a versatile white wine when it comes to food matching. The naturally low acidity, the textures and richness make it perfect with everything from spicy food, Asian flavours right through to dishes you would normally match with full bodied red wines.”
“People who don’t think they like white wines usually love Viognier, in many ways it’s as much like a red wine as it is a white… just doesn’t have colour.”